Saturday 26 December 2009

An oasis in the desert

This weekend, I took a break from the conflict, and went south with Andres to the dead sea, the Arava and a massive crater in Mitzpe Ramon. I was not planning to write about it, but we had such an amazing weekend, that I could not resist sharing the highlights.

The dead sea was a total trip-out from start to finish. From Jerusalem we took the so-called "bypass" road, which is an Israeli-built road in the West Bank designed to serve mainly the Israeli population. We arrived at a beach resort called Kalya, located in the West Bank, but which was covered with Israeli flags. And then as we entered, the place was full with a diverse mix of Israelis, Palestinians, and christian Indians, Sri Lankans and Koreans, who are here to celebrate Christmas. This place is nuts!

My favourite spots, however, were two moshavs we visited in the Arava. The oases in the desert. The first one was Ein Yahav where we stayed in a "zimmer" (the name taken from German), a Swiss-style chalet in the desert, which has become wildly popular with Israelis looking for a weekend getaway. The second moshav was Zipor, where we ate one of the most amazing brunches of my life.

An Israeli woman from Zipor called Ronit, decided to start an organic farm to teach children in the area about where their food comes from and how it is grown. Every year, with the help of children aged 4 to 10, they grow fresh, wholesome, and great-tasting fruits and vegetables (except for the Summer months, which are way too hot and burn everything!). She also keeps a small farm with rabbits, chickens and goats.

Two years ago she opened a restaurant in the garden, where you sit and eat amongst the tomato vines, cabbage patches, and rows of rocket leaves, parsley, basil, and oregano. We drank tea with fresh hibiscus, camomile and lemongrass. We ate freshly made jams and cheeses. I was in heaven.

75 percent of the water used for agriculture comes from wells dug by the government. The water is a bit salty, so they add 25 percent fresh water. Today, the farmers on the moshav use 90 percent less chemicals and pesticides they used 20 years ago (except for the organic garden which uses none). It is quite remarkable what these communities have been able to achieve in the desert (of course with the help of the government and the Jewish National Fund).

I expected the Arava to be dry, boring and empty. Instead, we saw amazing landscape, a booming tourism industry, thriving communities, and hidden gems! A much-needed weekend away.

5 days to go...


4 comments:

  1. I have read each day silently but can't remain silent anymore....
    '5 days to go'.
    It's finally hit me. I turn on my computer everyday and you are there. I turn on my phone and you are there. It's been such a wonderful opportunity to reconnect both with a land I have lost touch with and wonderful you. A land that for so long I have been shamed to call my own. As special as the land, peoples and place is you are equally. Thank you for sharing and taking the time to look, learn and see and share. It really is a much better place for wonderful souls like you. Love you lots.

    Will there be a support group for those of us who have withdrawl?

    Ing x

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  2. Thank you for the opportunity to travel with you all these weeks. Happy 2010!

    Your jewish brazilian mother!(:

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  3. Wunderful.. Thanks Carin!
    Enjoy your last 5 days..
    Love, Mélanie

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  4. I have to say good bye until the next time.
    For me your Journey was challenging, and often annoying and sometimes even disappointing. But you have all the respect and support for what you do and for putting so much energy in to it.
    We, the Jewish people survived two thousand years in Exile not because we agreed upon everything rather because we disagreed on most of the things.
    Akavia ben Mahalalel a first century sage from the Galilee said, "Consider three things and you will not come into the grip of sin: Know from where you came, where you are destined to go, and before Whom you will give account and reckoning." (Pirkei Avot 3 - Akavia ben Mahalalel was excommunicated for his disagreements with the other Sages and gave up a proposition to become a head of the court ).
    Enjoy the next few days and have a great Journey back home

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